Downstream from the Ponte Vecchio, where it is well worth making a quick detour to admire the splendid contents in its tiny old jeweller’s shops, you will find yourself in Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli, the oldest section of the streets that run alongside the Arno.
Look out over the river banks as in recent years the Arno has attracted flocks of wild birds, seagulls, geese, duck, heron and other water birds, which add to its attraction even more.
Turn off into Chiasso del Bene and then left again along Borgo Santissimi Apostoli to reach the tiny Piazza del Limbo and the church of SS. Apostoli, one of Florence’s prettiest Romanesque buildings. Go back to the Lungarno and continue downstream, past imposing houses and select shops, to the Ponte Santa Trinita, built by Bartolomeo Ammanati between 1567 and 1570, which connects Via Tornabuoni with Via Maggio. The Mugnone river, which flowed just outside the city walls, once entered the Arno at this point. The walls were extended in 1173 and the path of the Mugnone was shifted. Ferragamo, world famous for its shoes, stands on the corner of the Lungarno and Via Tornabuoni, and we now follow the Arno along Lungarno Corsini. Note splendid Palazzo Corsini, now used for exhibitions, one of the most important of which is the Biennial Antique Fair. Lungarno Guicciardini opposite hosts pretty Palazzo Coverelli, by an unknown architect. The little street beside it (Via del Presto San Martino) was once known as Via dei Pizzicotti (Pincher’s Alley) because the local yobs used to pinch anyone who ventured there! The last palace before the next bridge (Ponte alla Carraia) is Palazzo Ricasoli, attributed to Michelozzo, though built after his death (1480-1500). A tunnel was dug under the road in 1580 to connect the palace to a loggia and a garden where the Lungarno Vespucci now begins.
This Lungarno was only built in 1854 as, previous to this date, all the houses at this end of Borgo Ognissanti (before the square) had gardens that extended all the way down to the river. The Vagaloggia Gardens, one of Florence’s four public gardens (in addition to the Cascine) also stood here before the city became the Capital of Italy. Lungarno Vespucci opens onto Piazza Ognissanti, dominated by the church’s Baroque façade, with two of Florence’s finest hotels, the Westin Excelsior, where Rubinstein, Orson Welles, Charlie Chaplin, Hiro Hito, Henry Ford, Juliana of Holland, and Bill and Hilary Clinton and many other personalities have stayed, and the Grand Hotel, facing each other across the square.
A little further on, past stately houses and the occasional garden, we can also find the American Consulate, while Corso Italia, the street running parallel behind it, boasts the Teatro Comunale, Florence’s Opera House, where many famous singers and conductors have made musical history. Lungarno Vespucci leads towards Ponte alla Vittoria, formerly San Leopoldo, one of Florence’s two suspension bridges (the other was San Ferdinando). They were ordered by Archduke Leopoldo, who wanted to introduce metal construction work to Florence. In 1925 the San Leopoldo was replaced, only to be destroyed during the war. The present bridge was built in 1946. The Park of the Cascine, Florence’s largest park, extends 3 kilometres downstream beyond Ponte alla Vittoria, with meadows, playing fields, stables, footpaths, a race track and a public swimming pool. It was originally a farm belonging to the Medici and Lorraine families and donated to the public in the 18th century. The two parallel roads into it meet in Piazzale delle Cascine (note the Faculty of Agriculture and former farm buldings) and then continue as far as the curious tomb of an Indian prince who died in Florence, buried at the meeting of two rivers as prescribed by his religion, at the far end. It is now possible to proceed even further, as far as Signa, but this means more than a quick jog, it becomes a marathon! The is an extremely pleasant place for walking or jogging (in fact many athletes train here) and you can return along the road beside the Arno where, on Tuesdays, you can also stop and browse in the huge market.
[Susan Glasspool]

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