The characteristic Tuscan landscape is famous for its endless vineyards, towering cypress and greeny-grey olive trees. The olives are harvested between late October and November, hard and backbreaking work that is not helped by winter rains and chill winds.
Almost every farm in Tuscany boasts an olive grove. Some have their own oil press, a guarantee of good oil, as olives should be milled immediately after picking. They are crushed to a pulp by two granite wheels that turn on a large, circular block of granite. The pulp spread on round mats of hemp, perforated in the middle, which are stacked on a spindle and pressed to extract the oil and juice that collects at the base. The first oil is considered better than that extracted at the end of the process. Olive oil does not improve with age, it simply mellows, and the pungent aroma and flavour of the freshly pressed greenish oil gradually changes, acquiring a golden yellow colour and velvety texture. A good extra virgin oil should stay fairly fresh for a year or more if stored properly in cool place.
Tuscan oil is particularly low in acid content and therefore the best healthwise, though flavours can vary according to where the olives are grown, climate and so on. It can be peppery, fruity, full-bodied, or mild with underlying scents of grass, artichokes or wild herbs, certainly it should be flavoursome and not just oily.
Watch out for oil fairs, in November and December, when you can taste many excellent olive oils (try several to decide which you like best). Or, you can taste it in our recommended restaurants..!

Try dining at ZąZą in Piazza Mercato Centrale, 26-27r (tel. 055.215411) where you can enjoy the best of traditional cooking while natural products are particularly favoured. Tourists adore it, Florentines love it and even vips make a point of dining there. This characteristic trattoria, with tables giving onto the historic square that hosts the Market of San Lorenzo. is not only famous for its traditional and typical Florentine cuisine, but also for the wide range of fish dishes and delicious home made desserts.

An excellent dining alternative is NapoLeone in Piazza del Carmine 24 (tel. 055.281015), which also has outdoor tables giving onto the square. It is only open for dinner but serves fresh fish, classical meat dishes and a wide variety of delicious pizzas. The interior offers the atmosphere of an old Parisian cafč.

Ristorante La Spada in Via della Spada, 62r (tel. 055.218757) is a young fun restaurant with a family atmosphere that is specialised in skewered and grilled meats, especially the famous Florentine steak. It offers all the appeal and flavour of the typical Tuscan cuisine.

Acqua al 2 in Via Vigna Vecchia 40r (tel. 055.284170) is a cheery bistro where art, fashion and good food draw a mixed late-night crowd. Famous for its delicious Med food based on a series of extremely creative platter-served pasta dishes and wide variety of salads.
[Susan Glasspool]

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